Gold vermeil jewelry is a popular and affordable alternative to solid gold. It shares the same appearance and beauty as solid gold, while in a much affordable cost.
In this article, we will shed light on cogent questions like what type of base metal is used for vermeil jewelry, the thickness of the gold layer, and does gold vermeil fades.
Definition of Gold Vermeil Jewelry
Gold vermeil is a composition of sterling silver base metal, coated with a thick layer of gold. To be considered as gold vermeil jewelry, the base metal must be sterling silver, and the gold layer applied must be at least 2.5 microns thick.
Silver vs. Brass as Base Metal
Some jewelry brands will use 2.5 microns thickness of gold plating on brass products, and name it as”heavy gold plating”, which can be found as HGP marked on the jewelry piece. This can also help you identify whether the jewelry piece is gold vermeil or not.
Here are factors that differentiate silver from brass for base metal:
Longevity
Silver is a stable metal that does not deteriorate easily. It retains its quality for years, making it an ideal choice for long-lasting jewelry. This is one of the reasons why gold vermeil jewelry is highly waterproof.
Brass, on the other hand, offers decent durability but degrades over time. When exposed to water or friction, brass is likely to be oxidized and turn green.
Oxidization
Does gold vermeil turn green? Over time, silver may oxidize and turn to black or grey. This tarnish can be easily polished off and restored to its sparkling color. Also, when silver-gold vermeil oxidizes, the structure of the jewelry doesn’t get affected.
Brass, on the other hand, turns green when it oxidizes. This green color transfers to the skin, leaving unsightly marks. Also, the oxidation process can weaken the structure of the jewelry, making it difficult to restore to its shining state.
Value
As a precious metal, silver holds intrinsic value. Gold vermeil, with its sterling silver core and thick gold layer, is generally more valuable and regarded as high quality.
Brass is a non-precious metal, so any jewelry made from it has a lower intrinsic value. While brass metal may sometimes be coated with as much as 2.5 microns of gold(sometimes even more), and marked with TGP (Thick Gold Plating) or HGP (Heavy Gold Plating), it doesn’t hold the same long-term value as silver.
Is Brass as Base Metal Really That Bad?
While brass is indeed cheaper and is more reactive when oxidized, brass base jewelry does not necessarily mean inferior quality. In the plating process, brass jewelry will be covered with silver, palladium, gold, and a layer of e-coating. This is the way to protect the jewelry well and avoid color changes in a short time.
How to Choose between Silver or Brass Base for Thick Gold Plating?
Here are the factors to consider when choosing between silver and brass for thick gold plating:
Design
For super chunky designs, the volume of silver used for each piece will be high, as well as the weight. Silver is a premium material with a relatively high cost, some designers will choose to switch silver with brass to create jewelry that’s more affordable.
Budget
Brass is cheaper, so if you’re on a very tight budget, it’s the better option. However, you should know that brass oxidizes more quickly and its durability is a bit lower.
For buyers with a comfortable budget, silver is the better investment for long-lasting quality and luxury.
Market Positioning
If your brand is focused on consumers who prioritize aesthetics over extended longevity and are looking for a trendy, affordable option, brass is your go-to.
For brands positioning themselves in the premium market, silver base for thick gold plating is the better option. It appeals to consumers seeking more durable, valuable, and luxurious jewelry pieces.
Key Takeaway
A jewelry piece is only called “gold vermeil” when it has a sterling silver base and is plated with a minimum of 2.5 microns of gold.
Will gold vermeil turn green? NO. But this can only be ascertained when you buy from a professional gold vermeil jewelry manufacturer with a wealth of knowledge and experience.
